The Rotten Dead met up in Nampodong near the international market early morning on Saturday, 27 October 2007. After a nutritious breakfast of McMuffins at McDonalds, we hit the road for Haeinsa Temple located in the south-central part of the country. Heinsa is located in the center of Gayasan National Park in Gyeongsangnamdo Province. The ride to and from the temple is one of the most beautiful rides available in Korea. In late October, when the leaves on the trees have turned to firey reds, vivid yellows, and brilliant oranges, the ride is simply breathtaking.

We went wheels up at around 11 am. We left Pusan through Hadan and got on to Highway 2. We stopped in Changwon to fix Big D’s headlight. After repairs and a snack, we went to fire up the bikes for an uninterrupted run to the temple. However, Flash’s bike was deader than a doornail…totally innoperative. Thankfully, we were about 50 meters from the Motor 119 bike repair shop. It seems that a fuse had blown someone on Flash’s bike, which resulted in a quick drain of his battery. It was also interesting to note that someone had but a 125cc scooter battery into his 900cc Honda. After a brief charge to the battery, Flash’s bike was up and runny, but without the headlight, ironically.

We got back onto Highway 2 and rode into Masan. At the first major intersection near the Shinsaegi Department store, we rode through the intersection and past the Masan Stadium. The road eventually became Highway 5.

We raced up the wide open road of Highway 5 past the town of Changnyeong and on until Highway 5 crossed Highway 26.

We turned left onto Highway 26 and rode the short distance to the town of Goryeong.

At Goryeong, we turned right onto Highway 33 and rode deep into the countryside.

The rice and other grain fields were ready for harvest. Everywhere, farmers were working the fields. The road was lined with rice laid out to dry.

We took a break where Highway 33 intersected Highway 59.

After Flash took care of business, we turned left on Highway 59 and headed up into the mountains of Gayasan National Park.

We arrived at the entrance to the park approximately 30 minutes later.

After paying our KRW 2,000 (about US$ 2) per bike entrance fee, we rode the remaining few kilometers past the entrance to Haeinsa Temple and on to the small village surrounding the Haeinsa Bus Station. The village consists almost entirely of a police station, a bank, a bus station, a post office, numerous restaurants, sleeping accommodations, souvenir shops, and a few small grocery markets.

Upon arrival, our first order of business was to secure lodgings for the night. However, in order to do so, we had to wade through the sea of old ladies who were exceedingly annoying as they tried to convince you to come to their restaurant and/or sleep at their accommodations. None of the elderly barkers had learned the principle that the fastest way to make sure that one does not visit your place of business is to attempt to bully them there.

After running the Bluehair Gauntlet, we went to the nearest motel to seek a room. Although the doors were open, there was no one inside. No amount of shouting caused anyone to appear. Eventually, we moved on. The next place was also open, but empty. The third place we tried to go was completely shut down and out of business.

As we were looking around for somewhere else to go, a very helpful and unpushy gentleman directed us to a traditional Korean-style house with numerous individual rooms (minbak).

It wasn’t spectacular, but it was good enough for us. Each room had blankets, a basically useless television, and a small bathroom. The rooms provided an amazing view through the sliding doors.

It was getting cold and night was fast approaching. After paying the KRW 40,000 (about US$ 40) per person, we jumped on our bike for a short ride before it got too late.

The setting sun seemed to heighten the sharpness and contrast of the colors.

The crisp Autumn air and the changing leaves served as the first harbinger of the coming Winter.

As dusk arrived, we returned to our rooms, parked our bike and headed out for dinner. We went to a restaurant that Big D knew just down the hill from the rooms. We ordered our food, and while waiting for the food to come, we went out and had the displeasure or doing business with a psychotic, ill-tempered troll of a woman. We then returned to the restaurant and stuffed ourselves silly on chicken stew (ddalkdoritang) and onion pancakes (pajeon).

After sundown, it became bitter, teeth-chattering cold. We briefly searched for entertainment, but because it was not the heavy tourist season, there was not a lot going on. Due to the cold, we cut our search short, went to the nearest market, purchased some snacks, apples, and drinks. We headed back to our rooms to talk and settle down for a good night’s sleep.

The morning dawned crisp, cold, and clean. After a quick breakfast of an apple and some water, we rode out of the village and down to the temple entrance.

At that point, we intended to make the 1.5 kilometer hike up to the temple. However, when we actually arrived at the temple parking lot, Big D. felt that his leg was not yet strong enough for a 3 kilometer hike up and down a mountain. As we were still on our bikes and as the sun was shining brightly in the sky, we decided to continue on down the road and do as much riding as possible.

We took off down highway 59 for a few minutes until we came to Road 1084. A few kilometers more and we turned West onto Highway 26 and rode a few more kilometers toward the tiny town of Myosan and turned South onto Highway 24.

From that point, we stayed mostly on Highway 24.

We rode through rolling hills, farmland, across bridges and along rivers until we reached Changnyeong.

Passing through Changnyeong, we followed Highway 24 up into the mountains between Changnyeong and Miryang. The views are spectacular.

At the top of the mountain, we stopped at a tiny restaurant that is a popular biker hangout. We had another delicious onion pancake (pajeon) and a bowl of noodles. We enjoyed the view and watched the sport bikes race the twisties up and down the mountain.

As a racer, Flash couldn’t resist the call of the mountain, so he took a run down the mountain and back up again, before we headed down the mountain.

We rode through Miryang and continued along Highway 24 until we got to Road 1061 and followed it up to Miryang Dam.

We took a short rest and headed back toward Pusan on Highway 69.

We arrived back home in Pusan in the mid afternoon, said our goodbyes and brought another Rotten Dead MC run to an end.

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