30 June 2007: Ride Around Gadeokdo Island
After two weeks with only two or three rain-free days, and despite a forecast of rain, the motorcycle gods smiled and it was a beautiful day.
After meeting at Pusan Train Station and eating a quick breakfast of a toasted ham, egg, and cheese sandwich, we hit the road at 9:30 am. We rode south past the train station and turned west at the overpass. We then rode through the tunnel into Daeshin-dong and then through Daeti tunnel into Kwejeong and Hadan. From there, we took Highway 2 toward Jinhae.
After passing Yongwon and approximately 7 km before Jinhae, we arrived at Angol and turned off of Highway 2. We rode through Angol along the coast for a few minutes until we arrived at the ferry terminal.
We boarded the 11:00 am ferry to Gadeokdo and secured our bikes for the ride.
We went to the upper deck and took a look at the ocean ahead of us.
The captain of the vessel, who was reportedly enjoying an adult beverage shortly before boarding the vessel, was ready to set sail.
We sailed past the construction of the Pusan to Keoje Island bridge.
After about 30 minutes, we turned toward Gadeokdo Island. The ferry docked at a little pier built out into the ocean.
After getting off of the ferry, we turned right and headed up into the mountains. A short ride up a steep mountain and down the other side, set the pattern for the entire island. a series of mountains, coves, and small villages.
There are no major roads around the island. The roads are little more than concrete paths and sometimes no more than a narrow walkway between buildings. No idea what two cars coming from opposite directions would do.
At any time, the roads can end in a military base, a farm house, or a beautiful outcropping of rocks.
When you come to one of these dead ends, then you can only turn around and enjoy the view on the ride back.
Many of the houses on the island are very old and little more than shacks, but they are someone’s home.
Life on the small island remains very traditional. The only industries appeared to be fishing, farming, a few small stores and a handful of restaurants.
Some of the roads between the small villages are so steep that the switchbacks are immediately below section of road that you are on.
The steepness of roads required riders to go hard on the front and back breaks and to keep a substantial distance from the rider in front of you.
Riding back to the car ferry pier, we had a good look at one of the villages, the road leading over the final hill to the pier, and the mainland off in the distance.
We arrived back at the car ferry pier about 2 hours before the ferry was scheduled to arrive. We traveled every road we could find on the island, took a very slow lunch, and rode back to the ferry pier in approximately 3 hours. We waited for the ferry inside a small store, where we enjoyed snacks, adult beverages, soda pop, and good conversation.